August 16, 2009

Results - Savoy Cabbage, Pine Nut, Raisin and Pecorino Insalata

Buzo's coleslaw 3

I was once a avid hater of raw cabbage, now I'm a convert. And it was all because of this recipe! There are a couple of things that I've learnt during the time that I've had this blog, making macarons is not fun and cabbage can actually taste good when uncooked. I think that is a massive bonus to this recipe too, there is absolutely no cooking required, that is if you don't count toasting bread crumbs in the oven as cooking.

Buzo's coleslaw

To be honest you dont need any skill to make this recipe either. Its just a whole heap of chopping, slicing and arranging. Most of the effort is required when eating it, another bonus in my book! There's very little clean up too! I only made a half batch of the recipe and it made quite a bit, I had left overs for lunch the next day. The bread crumbs were a little soggy on day two, but the salad cream was delicious soaked into the beard crumbs!

chopped cabbage

Chop your cabbage

crumbs

Toast your crumbs

dumped into the bowl

Put it all in a bowl....

cabbage coleslaw

Then toss! "Now, you shake it to the left. You shake it to the right. Do the Hippy Shake Shake.. With all of your might!"
On the night that I made it, I didn't really feel like eating meat, which happens from time to time. Daz was pretty annoyed at that, being a red blooded male if there isn't something that either moo-ed, baah-ed or oink-ed on his plate for dinner....he still feels hungry, regardless of how big the meal might be. So I braved the elements (Daz at cranky level 9 is like sitting through a storm!), and dished up the cabbage with a soft centred fried egg on top. He loved it. The only way I can get away with not serving meat is by substituting egg, and with the runny center going all over the cabbage it was like having extra sauce. It was pretty good. I can imaging this salad being pretty tasty at an afternoon bbq, a couple of beers to wash down the cabbage would be extra nice.

Buzo's coleslaw 2

August 10, 2009

Savoy Cabbage, Pine Nut, Raisin and Pecorino Insalata

Restaurant: Buzo Restaurant (NSW)
Recipe from Chefs Todd Garratt and James Hird (Hopefully not the Essendon Bombers James Hird) (appeared on Attica website earlier this year)
2009 Rating: Number 90, 1 Star

I've never been a fan of coleslaw. Coming from an Italian background, all my exposure to cabbage has been of the cooked variety, so exploring raw cabbage is somewhat of a novel experience to me. I had half a head of savoy cabbage in the fridge and I wanted to use it, preferably something different to my usual braised cabbage. So I turned to my trusty friend gourmet traveller.

Savoy cabbage, pine nut, raisin and pecorino insalata

Serves 6
Cooking Time Prep time 15 mins

100 gm Iranian raisins (see note)
125 ml (½ cup) marsala
600 gm (about ½) savoy cabbage, thinly sliced
1-2 tbsp white balsamic or white wine vinegar
100 gm (2/3 cup) pine nuts, toasted
100 gm sourdough breadcrumbs, torn into 5mm pieces and toasted
80 gm pecorino, finely grated
4 cups (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley leaves

Salad cream
4 egg yolks
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
300 ml olive oil
100 ml pouring cream

1. Place raisins in a bowl and pour in marsala to cover, cover and stand overnight.

2. For salad cream, process egg yolks, vinegar and mustard in a food processor until combined, then gradually add oil in a thin, steady stream until emulsified. Transfer to a small bowl, stir through cream and season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Refrigerate until needed. Salad cream will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

3. Combine cabbage and vinegar in a bowl, toss to coat and stand for 10 minutes.

4. Drain raisins, discarding marsala, and add to cabbage with pine nuts and half the breadcrumbs, pecorino and parsley. Add salad cream, toss gently to combine and season to taste. Serve immediately scattered with remaining breadcrumbs, pecorino and parsley.

Note Iranian raisins are available from specialty food stores or see www.pariya.com for stockists. If unavailable substitute with seedless raisins.

August 6, 2009

Esposito

esposito front door

Date: August 2009
2009 Rating: 75th
2009 Star rating: 1
Chef: Maurice Esposito
Location: 162 Elgin Street, Carlton, Victoria
Website: www.espositofood.com

Its been a while since my last top 100 visit, and this month I've managed to visit a few, thanks in part to the Put Victoria on the Table promotion. Earlier this week we moseyed on down to Esposito @ Toofeys. Esposito is renowned for his seafood so I at least knew what I wanted for my main, something fishy.

esposito wine

The decore and atmosphere was actually quite lovely, there was only one problem. Jonquils! I HATE Jonquils, don't get me wrong, I think they are very pretty, but they smell horrid! I would not immediately pair the smell of Jonquils with mouth watering dishes, but on the other hand I really dislike them, the next person to walk through the door may love them. So its hardly something I can complain about.

We started the meal with a complementary appetiser. I love it when the chef takes the time to come up with something that each of his/her diners receives before they start their meal. Its even better when that little something extra tastes awesome! We received a tiny little dish filled with mixed herbs including tarragon, mint, dill, parsley, fennel and spring onion all combined in a mustard dressing. It was delicious, great way to kick things off.

esposito appetiser

We weren't particularly hungry so stuck to the two course dinner. For entree/main I had the John Dory fillets with kipfler potato and mud crab crush and artichoke tortellone. I enjoyed the dish. The crab/potato crush was by far my favourite, you could really taste the crab in the crush and it went really well with the crispy skin on the dory. The problem? The fish was extremely under seasoned and there was a tomato on my plate in the middle of winter. Enough said.

esposito john dory

Daz had the Black Angus fillet steak with mushroom ragout, 50 year old balsamic vinegar and potato puree. The plate was quite pretty. Daz's reaction was that the dish was good, but not great.

esposito black angus

For dessert I had the Hot date tart - Spiced frangipane with vanilla bean ice cream. I just couldn't resist the name of this dish and I just had to have the hot date for myself. I was pretty glad I did. There was some slight confusion and my date went to another table, would have been understandable if it had been a blind date. By the time it reached me, the ice cream had melted quite a bit. The pastry was flaky and it definitely lived up to its name, piping hot with the nice thick layer of date. Hmmm yum!

esposito hot date tart

The end of Daz's meal was a bit more cheesy than mine. He had Pyengana cheddar, toasted fruit bread and house of Hines quince paste. I had a little nibble of his cheddar and it was pretty good. Crumbly and sweet, too bad the fruit bread was more like toast.

esposito cheddar

Esposito was nice, I wish I had a chance to try more of the seafood, so another visit is needed.

August 2, 2009

Bastille Day Wrap Up - Macarons and Truffles

white chocolate and raspberry macarons

Yay, after all my procrastination, I am finally up to the last instalment of the Bastille Day epic. And what a good one it is. It involves tears, catastrophic failure....multiple ones, booze, dizzying heights of joy and finally exhaustion, and that's only the macarons! So I think that's probably the best place to start. When I received my June issue of Gourmet Traveller with the gorgeous macarons on the front cover, I knew immediately what I would have for petit fours. So I did what any fellow food blogger would do, I hit the blogs. I wanted to find out what everyone else's experience with the tasty macarons was. Duncan @ syrup and tang has a great resource, and he truly knows what hes talking about, for sheer beauty I turned to Ellie @ Kitchen Wench and her beautiful macarons, a few sound tips from Julia @ Melanger and a good old belly laugh from Rilsta @ My Food Trail and her macaron sunglasses, I'm sure the first in the world!

white chocolate and raspberry macarons2

Many years ago I baked my first macaron, resulting in a massive failure. 2009 was the year to give it another go. So first thing first, trial run for the big day, I chose Duncan's macarons au sucre cuit recipe. I weighed my ingredients, made my batter, piped them out and then put the little ones in the oven and out they came - hard as a rock and looking nothing like french macarons. Little did I know that my scales were registering ZERO grams when in fact I had put in 50! So the next day I purchased a brand new shinny set of digital scales, and boy do I love them, they weigh things correctly....if only my bathroom scales were like my old kitchen scales!

white chocolate and raspberry macarons3

Attempt two saw me under mix my batter, so I ended up with shells that weren't exactly shiny and they distinctly lacked the "feet" I was looking for. So onto attempt 3, this time I mixed them perfectly, they came out of the oven shiny and they even had feet....bonus score! But....and there is a BIG but, my ganache was not so good. I followed the gourmet traveller recipe, which was a big mistake. It turned out a little wet due to the whole pieces of raspberry, so by the following day my macarons had turned into a wet goopy mess. I had taken them into work to show off my new found skills and I ended up almost crying. I popped open the box and saw these.......
squeezy macarons 2

I try to pick one up and it turned into this.....

squeezy macarons

I officially hated macarons at that point. Because I'm a complete nutter, by late afternoon I had already resolved myself to trying one more time, the saying is 4th time lucky right???? This time I got it right! Woo hoo, go team me. I changed the ganache recipe, I made a thick raspberry syrup and added it to the ganache, and I was in macaron heaven! It only took me 4 goes, dozens of eggs and countless hours of my sanity. But it was all worth it in the end!

chocolate truffles3

The second component of my petit fours were cointreau and chocolate truffles, thankfully these were alot easier than the macarons. Here is the recipe.

chocolate truffles2

Cointreau and Chocolate Truffles

INGREDIENTS

250 ml pouring cream
425 gm dark chocolate buttons
50 ml cointreau

For dusting: Dutch-process cocoa

METHOD

1. Break chocolate up into small pieces and place in a bowl. Bring cream to the boil and pour over chocolate. Add alcohol and stir until smooth and glossy, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, but still workable.
2. Using two spoons, make quenelles and then return to refrigerator for 2 hours to set. Dust with cocoa powder and refrigerate overnight.

chocolate truffles

And so concludes the Bastille Day series, now we can all get back to real life.

July 26, 2009

Bastille Day Wrap Up - Almond Frangipane Tart with Toffee Pear

Almond frangipan tart with toffee pear 4

And now for another installment of the ongoing saga that was Bastille Day. For all you following along, we are now up to the dessert section of the meal. Let me tell you I am very impressed with myself with this little dessert. The images here are of my "experimental" tart. I had a pretty clear idea of what I wanted to achieve, I just wanted to test whether it would come together well or if it was a massive flop. I cheated, again, and used ready-made shortcrust pastry for the trial. I knew I would use sweet almond pastry and that always works well, I just wasn't sure about the actual pear component of the tart.

Almond frangipan tart with toffee pear
I'm one of those people that always strikes it lucky when I cook something for the first time, well usually.....my macaron effort broke my lucky streak! Damn you macaron! But with this tart I wasn't overally confident. I wanted to achieve something that was restaurant quality, both in look and flavour. I had never used an oven to dehydrate fruit before, bread?....yes, cakes?...yes but dehydrated cakes are usually not the intended result. My dehydrated fruit turned out awesome, so much so I've been dehydrating up a storm! Its a perfect way to use that fruit that is so close to making it to the compost bin. The second part of the pear was dipping it in some toffee and getting a good crunch when biting into it. Chilling the toffee quite quickly after it is added to the pear achieves a nice teeth splitting crunch.
Almond frangipan tart with toffee pear 3

Jolly gosh was I stoked with myself. I served it up to the unsuspecting Daz and let him eat it without saying a word. After he had consumed the last crumb, I asked him, in the calmest voice I could muster, "do you think that is a restaurant recipe?or something I made myself?" Without a split second of a pause he said "Restaurant! No way that's you!" Score, mission accomplished.

When I served it at the party, everyone wanted more pear. I had made about 20 pear slices dipped in toffee, it was all gone....very quickly.

So here is my recipe for Almond frangipane tart with toffee pear.

Makes 8 tarlets

INGREDIENTS

For Dehydrated Pears/Toffee Pears
2 pears sliced thinly
100 g Castor sugar

For Sweet Almond pastry (this makes alot of pastry, but it freezes really well, just defrost in the fridge overnight to use again)

1¼ cups plain flour
1/3 cup pure icing sugar
¼ cup almond meal
125 g cold butter, coarsely chopped
1 egg yolk

For Almond Frangipane

80 g slivered almonds, lightly toasted
50 g butter
50 g pure icing sugar
50 g almond meal
1 tsp plain flour
1 egg, lightly whisked
20 ml port

To Garnish

Icing sugar to dust
Cream, whipped and flavoured with vanilla essence or vanilla beans

METHOD

For Dehydrated Pears/Toffee pears

1. Line a flat baking tray with some baking paper. Arrange the pear slices on the tray making sure that the slices do not overlap.

2. Place in the over with it at the lowest setting possible. Bake for about 4 hours or until dehydrated but still soft, i.e. not crunchy. Alternatively you can put the pear slices in a hot over, after its been turned off, and leave them in there overnight, similar to making dried bread crumbs.

3. Prepare a baking tray by lining it with some baking paper and putting it in the fridge to chill, this is important to get a very crunchy toffee. To make the toffee, place sugar in a small heavy based saucepan, add a few tablespoons of water, enough to wet the sugar. Heat over medium heat until toffee in colour and smell, remove from heat. Take tray from the fridge and working quickly, one by one, dip the half the dehydrated pear slice in the toffee. Place the slices on the tray and return to the fridge. Remember to be very careful as the toffee is extremely hot. Adriano Zumbo's tip of having a bowl of cool water near by is spot on. If you get a drop of the toffee on your fingers, quickly dip them in the water to solidify the toffee before it burns you.

dehydrated pear

For sweet almond pastry

1. Using a food processor, process dry ingredients until combined,

2 Add butter and process until fine crumbs form.

3. Add egg yolk and 1 tbsp cold water and process until mixture just forms a dough.

4. Dust a work surface with some flour and knead briefly to bring together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

5. Preheat oven to 180C. Roll out pastry on a lightly floured surface to 5mm-thick, grease and flour the inside of 8 tartlet tins then line them with the pastry. Trim edges flush with sides. Prick base with a fork and bake blind until starting to colour (10-15 minutes). Make sure not to overcook the pastry or it will be dry and brittle

For Almond Frangipane

1. Combine icing sugar, almond meal and flour in a separate bowl

2.Beat butter in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy.With motor running, gradually add the dry mixture to butter until completely combined.

3.Add egg, beating well to combine, then slowly beat in port. Fold in the almonds.

Assembly

1. Spread frangipane in the tart cases. Make sure not to overfill as the frangipane will puff up some. Bake at 180C until slightly golden on top, about 10-15 minutes

Almond frangipan tart 2
This is what happens when you fill them too much

Almond frangipan tart

2. Once the tarts have cooled, turn them out and place on a plate. Dust the top with some icing sugar. Place a quenelle on top, sorry my quenelles are not as perfect as Gordon Ramsays! Shove a toffee pear slice in the middle. Hopefully it will stand unassisted!

You can make these in advance, especiall the pastry.

Almond frangipan tart with toffee pear 2

July 23, 2009

Bastille Day Wrap Up - Crispy Skinned Salmon

crispyskinned salmon

Who can resist a nice piece of crispy skinned salmon? I dare anyone to pass it up. More flavoursome than crispy chicken skin and healthier to boot, how can anyone lose? When I served this up at the Bastille day celebrations it went down a treat. Coupled with potato salad, made with herb mayonnaise, and wilted spinach it was delicious. I kept the serving size small because I was concerned about the courses to follow, and besides don't things in smaller bites always taste better?

I made a burnt butter sauce to go over the top of the salmon, the nutty flavour was a nice accent to the creamy potatoes. The spinach helped to cut through the oiliness of the fish and richness of the butter. I really enjoyed this dish, and its pretty simple to prepare. The potato salad can be made well in advance, always a bonus when you are throwing a french dinner party with loads of boozy french wine!

So here is the recipe, so dead easy that anyone can make it!

Serves 4

For Salmon

4 small fillets of Salmon
150 grams butter
small handful of parsley leaves

For Potato Salad (adapted from Pearl recipe)

6-8 Kipfler potatoes, cooked with their skins on then peeled and diced into small cubes
1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley leaves
½ cup (loosely packed) basil leaves
200 ml olive oil
2 egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp white wine vinegar

3 large handfuls of baby spinach, wilted and seasoned


1. For herb mayonnaise, process herbs and olive oil in a food processor and stand overnight, then strain through a fine sieve, discarding solids. Whisk yolks, mustard and vinegar in a bowl to combine, then gradually whisk in herb oil in a thin stream until emulsified and thick. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Makes about 1 cup. Mix with diced potatoes and set aside until needed

2. Season Salmon with salt and pepper. Rub a little extra salt into the skin of the salmon. Heat 2-3 tablespoons of butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Place salmon, skin side down, in the frying pan. Cook until skin turns extremely crispy 5-6 minutes. Turn the salmon over and add remaining butter. Spoon melted butter over the fish until it is cooked to your liking.

3. Place the cooked salmon on top of a small bed of spinach. Place 2-3 parsley leaves on top of the spinach and add some potato salad to the side. Return butter to the heat and continue to cook until it begins to turn brown and smells like toasting nuts. Spoon butter on top of salmon, over paisley. The parsley with crisp and crackle a bit due to the hot butter. Serve immediately.

Nom nom nom.....crispy crunchy salmon skin!

crispyskinned salmon 3

July 18, 2009

Bastille Day Wrap Up - Mushroom Puree

mushroom puree

Bastille Day is over! And thank goodness for that, there were a couple of moments there where I thought I was in a Masterchef pressure test! I had stupidly thought that I could buy a bulk of my ingredients on the day, and I ended up only giving myself 4 hours prep/cook time. But in the end the whole thing went fantastic, I judge that by the number of people who suffer food poisoning, less than 5 is a success! I hope to post a series of recipes from the night. I'll keep them short so the enjoyment level will be high.

mushroom puree 3

So for the amuse bouche I made a mushroom puree topped with sauteed mushrooms and a drizzle of truffle oil. Just in case any one is wondering, I get my black truffle oil from my local veg grocer. It cost me $9.10, I have bought white truffle oil from the french cheese shop at Queen Victoria market before. Its quiet easy to come across, just thought I would let people know. As a funny side note, you need to use the oil pretty quickly or else all the flavour will be lost. Daz likes to drizzle it on his 2 minute noodles. Yep, two minutes noodles with truffle oil....who said instant noodles were a poor mans food!?!
black truffle oil

Here is the recipe for Mushroom Puree

INGREDIENTS

Serves 4 entree sized dishes

250g mixed mushrooms, chopped, any variety or size as long as there is a mixture of different types
250mL beef stock
1 sprig of thyme, plus extra for garnish
2 garlic cloves, sliced thinly
50-80 gram butter
2 tbsp of sour cream
truffle oil

METHOD

1. Place 1 tbsp of butter into a medium sized sauce pan. Melt butter over high heat then add the garlic. Cook garlic until fragrant, 10-20 seconds. Add the mushroom and cook until they collapse a little, 2-3 minutes. Add the leaves of 1 sprig on thyme to the mushrooms. Set aside a few mushroom to use for garnish later on.

2. Add the beef stock and let it come to the boil. Decrease the heat to low and cook until half the stock has evaporated.

3. Place in a food processor and blend until very smooth. Return the puree to a saucepan and heat over low heat. If the puree is too thick, add a little hot water, or beef stock. Add the sour cream and butter. Stir until fully incorporated into the puree.

4. Spoon puree into individual bowls, top with a few sauteed mushrooms and a few thyme leaves. Drizzle some truffle oil ontop and serve immediately.

mushroom puree getting truffle olive put ontop

Despite this dish's appearance, brown on brown, it taste delicious! The earthy mushroom flavour is fantastic, and the truffle oil ontop takes the dish to a whole new dimension. You can skip adding the truffle oil if you like, and replace it with some good Olive oil. Either way, the dish will still taste great!

mushroom puree 2